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A Tribute to a Climbing Legend: Vangelis Galanis’ New Route on Kapelo Peak

In the autumn of 2022, after a long absence, Vangelis Galanis returned to the iconic rock formations of Meteora, Greece. This visit was not merely a trip down memory lane but an emotional reunion with the past, particularly with the memories of Dietrich Hasse, a pioneering German climber who had left an indelible mark on Meteora’s climbing history.
The Origins of a Climbing Legend
In the late 1970s, Dietrich Hasse had introduced rock climbing to the Meteora region, famed for its towering conglomerate pillars. In the spring and early summer of 1995, Galanis spent extensive time climbing with Hasse. Their days were filled with ascents and their evenings with discussions about their shared passion. Together, they established several routes, including “The Grey Cat” on Nun’s Wall.
One formation that captured their imagination was the imposing west buttress near Kalambaka’s Tower. Despite its allure, Hasse was not inclined to climb it at the time, leading them to other challenges. However, this buttress would later become a significant element in Galanis’ climbing journey.
The Birth of “The Old Soldier”
In 2022, while revisiting Meteora, Galanis felt a powerful connection to his past, especially to Hasse, who had passed away a few months prior. Compelled by these emotions, Galanis rope-soloed a new route, naming it “The Old Soldier.” This name symbolized the dedication and risk inherent in their climbing pursuits, likening them to soldiers fulfilling their duty.
Discovering Kapelo Peak
During his 2022 visit, Galanis opened two small routes on the unclimbed west buttress, now known as Kapelo Peak. The name, discovered through conversations with local climbers and old texts, aptly describes the peak’s hat-like summit. Galanis also installed a summit book, cementing the peak’s identity and climbing history.
The Creation of “Dietrich Hasse”
In April 2024, Galanis returned to Meteora with the intention of establishing another route. Initially considering the addition of a third route on Kapelo Peak with a partner, he ultimately felt compelled to take on the challenge alone. Despite his age and self-doubt, Galanis embarked on this personal project, determined to honor his late friend.
After days of arduous climbing and a night spent on the wall, Galanis completed the route, naming it “Dietrich Hasse.” This ascent was a profound tribute to his friend and a testament to Galanis’ enduring dedication to climbing.
The Legacy Continues
“Dietrich Hasse” now awaits a second ascent. While most of the route can be climbed free, the first part of the sixth pitch presents a challenging overhang and blank wall. The provided topo includes all necessary details for future climbers.
Galanis’ solitary climb stands as a powerful statement of personal and communal dedication, blending homage, memory, and the relentless pursuit of climbing excellence.